Why Calvillo is the most famous city in Aguascalientes

One of my favorite ways to explore Mexico is to visit the Pueblos Mágicos. These “magical towns” are smaller towns and villages that are part of a Federal Tourism Initiative for their cultural value. Although the area around my adopted home of Puerto Vallarta is dotted with beautiful, magical towns, they often seem overcrowded and congested due to growing tourism.

But not all Pueblos Mágicos are affected by mass tourism. There are nearly 200 of them throughout Mexico, and most remain off the international tourist radar. Calvillo, Aguascalientes, for example, just 52 kilometers from the city of Aguascalientes, offers a refreshing change of pace.

What sets Calvillo apart

Life in Calvillo is slower than in the magical towns near where I live. With no international tourism here, everything goes on with character and tradition. It's a slice of real, living Mexico, not one that feels like a stage, with cobblestone streets, 19th-century architecture, leafy plazas and the faint scent of sweet guavas in the air.

Calvillo is easy to reach for a day trip, but I suggest staying a night or two to take your time here. Surrounded by the Sierra Fría, Calvillo is located in a small valley. Historic streets are lined with colorful facades, while Paper Picado flutters above us.

Calvillo was founded in 1771 and the Spanish influence can be seen throughout the town. The main square is home to the stunning Temple of the Lord of Salitrea beautiful 200-year-old baroque-style church. The church is a place where many pilgrims pay their respects to the Señor del Salitre, the city's patron saint. Nearby is the Municipal Palace, another example of the city's Spanish-influenced architecture. With its arches and balconies, this elegant building serves as the seat of the city's administration.

But what really makes Calvillo famous is its reputation as the Guava Capital of the World. Between Calvillo and neighboring Zacatecas, there are more than 4,500 guava producers in the region. More than just a cash crop, guavas – called “guayaba” in Spanish – are deeply rooted in local culture and can be found in everything from candy and pastries to beverages and even cosmetics.

The guava capital of the world

You can learn about Calvillo's roots by visiting the guava orchards, taking a tour and sampling. Or you can get straight to the point and head to the town's many candy shops. You'll find some on Calle 5 de Mayo, like Don Emiliano, where you can enjoy guava-based treats. Ate de guayaba is a sticky, sweet spread that pairs perfectly with cheese, while guava rolls and jelly bake the fruit into breakfast treats. Wash it down with agua de guayaba, a lightly sweetened guava-infused water, or spice it up with a craft guava beer.

In addition to snacks and sweets, Calvillo's culinary scene is a feast of flavors, with guavas playing a starring role. The town's restaurants and street vendors serve a variety of traditional dishes, such as birria de guayaba, made from goat meat seasoned with spices and served with guava salsa. You can even try guava mole at the small Alebrije restaurant.

The annual Guayaba Fair is a celebration of Calvillo's popular fruit and draws visitors from all over the region. Held in December, this lively festival features music, dancing, and an abundance of guava-based food and drink. Unlike festivals in more touristy towns, the Guayaba Fair maintains a sense of community and tradition, with events that focus more on local customs than visitors.

If you're tired of guavas, you can also try fruit-free dishes, such as tacos de guisados, soft corn tortillas filled with different stews such as chicharrón, picadillo or rajas. For dessert, be sure to try pastel de guayaba, a soft guava cake with creamy guava glaze.

To the mountains

But Calvillo's treasures extend beyond the guava trees into the Sierra Fría. Surrounded by rugged natural beauty, this is one of the best places in Mexico for outdoor adventure. The Presa de Malpaso, for example, is a beautiful reservoir just a short drive from town. The crystal-clear waters are perfect for kayaking or fishing. The Cañón de Jaltiche is laced with hiking trails that lead to dramatic mountain views. Here you'll also find El Tepozán Natural Park, perfect for a stroll amid colorful flowers and wildlife.

In town, you can hike up to the Santa Cruz de Calvillo monument, which sits on a hill overlooking the town. The hilltop, crowned with a large cross, offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains. The route to the summit is lined with trails that follow the Stations of the Cross. At the summit, there is a newly revitalized welcome center with a few restaurants and art galleries. Plan your hike just before sunset so you can watch the sky turn into color as the day turns to evening.

On the way back, stop by Chuy Bombas Bar and try a Calvillo legend and their signature drink: the Bomba. The deceptively deadly concoction is made with grenadine, red wine, brandy, Bacardi white rum, vodka, lime juice and squirt. You have been warned. This stripped-down cantina has no frills or fuss. It's a warm, welcoming joint where locals gather for good conversation and no pretense.

The bottom line about Calvillo is that it's a town that lives its history every day. As much as I love the magical towns in the more touristy areas of Mexico, there's something special about venturing into the unknown. The streets are devoid of souvenir stands and chain restaurants. Instead, you'll find local shops, markets, and restaurants that cater to residents. Calvillo's historic architecture isn't just a backdrop for Instagram photos, but a testament to the town's rich heritage. People are proud of their town's traditions and eager to share them with those who take the time to visit.

Meagan Drillinger is a native New Yorker who has spent the last 15 years traveling and writing about Mexico. Although she spends most of her time on assignment, Puerto Vallarta is her home base. Follow her travels on Instagram at @drillinjourneys or via her blog at drillinjourneys.com.