Metropolis Japan

Welcome to Shinjuku, the world's busiest train station. With around two million commuters a day, Tokyo's hyper-hub is a never-ending hustle and bustle. But there is a way to escape the crowds. Twelve train lines operate here, and through the crowds you can glimpse the orange JR Chuo Line and its promise of nature beyond. It may be unknown to many, but west of Shinjuku, Tokyo's Tama region is a natural oasis; a pot of green gold at the end of Tokyo's concrete rainbow. Read on for a guide to Okutama.

The Chuo Line takes you past already famous places like Inokashira Park and the ever-popular Ghibli Museum. These are definitely treats and well worth the trip. It takes just under two hours to reach Okutama Station, the westernmost station in the Tama area. There's little time to waste, so the train keeps going. From Tachikawa, the line changes to the JR Ome Line, a trip into Japanese railway history, as the line began operations in 1894.

Immerse yourself in the tranquility of Okutama

The feeling of space grows. The heritage points like the Maimaizu fountain outside Hamura Station, whose snail-like structure turned out to be an ingenious method of extracting water from the rough terrain. The nostalgia here continues in Ome, where Ome-juku is. Hundreds of Japanese, American and European movie posters from the 1950s hang around the station. Time seems to have stood still here.

It is only when you leave Ome behind that the underrated glory of the Tama region really becomes apparent. The surroundings transform into a lush collection of forested hills, cut by lost ravines and hidden valleys. The air is full of oxygen, fresh with the aroma of cypress trees and the burbling of mountain springs. The world here has changed. It may be Tokyo, but at the same time, it is clearly not.

Eventually you'll reach Okutama Station, the end of Tokyo's modern world. Further west are the stunning limestone caves of Nippara, formed by dripping drops that took a million years of patience. Perseverance is nothing new out here. But in the hidden groves of Okutama, a little surprise awaits: stalks of green treasures that once caught the attention – and the palates – of the shoguns.

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A Guide to Okutama and Wasabi

The cheap bags of horseradish and green dye that dominate the world are a pale comparison to real wasabi. Wasabi is a relative of broccoli and kale and has always been served with fish to prevent spoilage. Its antibacterial properties have been known for thousands of years. Grinding the stem also revealed a vibrant, fresh taste. The shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu himself ordered the cultivation of the root in Okutama – and in great secrecy. Its value was so high that Okutama wasabi became known as Shogun wasabi.

The shogun's instinct was not misplaced. Okutama is a natural home for wasabi, as its mild temperatures, moist shade, and fresh mountain water provide perfect growing conditions. There are over 100 wasabi fields in Okutama, and some farms produce as many as 50,000 plants. That seems substantial until you consider that mass production farms in other prefectures regularly reach 300,000 plants. Significant, to be sure. However, the unique natural environment and proximity to the world's largest market in Tokyo give Okutama growers a certain sense of security; their efforts are always in demand.

Okutama Grounds

The rugged but extremely beautiful terrain means that the plots of land are necessarily small and require extensive local knowledge. The hills here are made up of ancient rock and more recent volcanic material and are porous like giant sponges. The best wasabi growing areas are where water seeps to the surface from hundreds of meters below. Because each plot soaks up its own unique combination of minerals, the flavor of Okutama wasabi is very varied.

There is also a strong community spirit among wasabi growers in Okutama. Since cultivation began in the Edo period, that sense of tradition has remained, but it is hard work to attract new blood to the field. Many growers are open about their craft and dream of passing on their knowledge to the next generation. As with many traditions in Japan, finding new enthusiasts can be a challenge.

Wasabi Shokudo belongs to a new generation of enthusiasts who want to preserve the culinary heritage of their region. Crossing the Hikawa Gorge takes you to Yamashiro-ya and its centuries-old history. A few stops further on in Kawai, Australian David Hulme has become a passionate local expert. Wasabi cultivation is no longer a closed business, but has started. Although current prices do not match the high season of the 1950s and 60s, the quality of the products has not diminished.

Wasabi Terraces

Full of minerals from the mountain water trickling down the rocky slopes over weeks and months, Okutama wasabi is filled with an earthy vitality that is both spicy and solid. The wasabi terraces are carefully maintained and monitored, and blend lovingly into the natural contours of Okutama. Their secluded location makes them ideal spots for a classic Okutama hike, which has led to a rise in wasabi taste tours and nature walks.

Tokyo may be a city that never ends, but to the west, surrounded by the mountains of Kumotori, Mito and Odake, life moves at a breathable pace. Just like the wasabi, a visit here is an opportunity to absorb the best of Tokyo's natural world. Thanks to the noble persistence of the wasabi growers, the purity of their most famous products is arguably the most honest – and flavorful – representation of what Okutama does best.