Varanasi’s Zardozi craftsmanship is a legacy of skill and cultural connection and shines worldwide

By Anuj JaiswalVaranasi (Uttar Pradesh) [India]September 7 (ANI): Known as one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and a spiritual capital, Varanasi is celebrated for its handicrafts, especially weaving and embroidery.

In the narrow streets of Varanasi's Lallapura district, skilled artisans produce exquisite Zardozi embroidery that is famous worldwide.

These artisans produce badges, emblems and garments that are also worn by foreign dignitaries, military officers and leading religious figures.

The artisans also fulfil custom orders from fashion houses, using materials such as zari (gold and silver thread) and silk. The craft, one of the finest traditional embroidery, is widespread in the Lallapura district of Varanasi and is practised jointly by the Hindu and Muslim communities. More and more women are also getting involved, especially since Zardozi was granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2013.

Shadab Aalam, an artisan, told ANI that they are working on badges and other products of artistic value.

“Banarasi Zardozi has been given a GI tag. The mass work done by us is called 'Bardozi'. We are already the third generation into this work. I have been doing this craft for almost 15 years. My father and grandfather were also involved and it is a century-old business for my family. Since the GI, both the government and non-government sectors are paying a lot of attention to us. Many customers are asking for Zardozi handicrafts as Banaras is popular for it. The items we make are intricately crafted in leather. We are getting continuous orders and the demand has increased since the GI tag. The artisans are also more interested in the work,” he said.

Shah Nawaz Aalam, another artisan, told ANI that they use zari and metal work along with various other techniques to make handicraft pieces.

“We even use blankets that improve the quality of the handicrafts… We also work with gold and silver. For every 10 grams of material we use two grams of gold. Silver is also used in the same proportion, so two grams of silver for every 10 grams of material,” he said.

Varanasi has the highest number of GIs in India with 34 products including the famous Banarasi sari. The industry is thriving under the GI and has expanded its market reach in Europe, the Gulf and Asia.

Dr Rajnikant, a GI expert and Padma Shri recipient, said Kashi would meet the demand for badges, monograms, cap badges and epaulettes, often for foreign dignitaries.

He said when French President Emmanuel Macron visited Varanasi in 2018 on the invitation of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, the weavers showcased their craft in a live demonstration.

“They made the coat of arms of France. He was very impressed with their zardozi work. Weavers presented a coat of arms of France. This craft meets the demand from Europe, the Gulf countries and even the states of the USA. Monograms and even military badges are made here,” he said.

He said that the Zardozi work of Banaras is practiced in different parts of the country, but handicrafts like monograms, badges, flags and emblems are also found here.

Rajnikant said that with the award of GI tag to Zardozi, traditional craftsmanship has also been revived.

“The best part is that people all over the world demand handcrafted emblems and badges, not those that are machine-made. Before the introduction of the GI tag, orders mostly came through exporters, but since we created awareness, master artisans (of Zardozi) are now getting orders directly. PM Modi's mantra 'local to global' is being implemented here. People all over the world are approaching master artisans of Varanasi for orders,” he said.

Zardozi work is entirely handcrafted. Skilled artisans in Varanasi have unique expertise in this craft. Over 500 to 600 artisans and their families from all over Varanasi dedicate long hours to craft each and every piece with precision in gold, silver and brass.

Artisan Mohammad Rizwan said 'zari' is a mixture of gold, silver and brass. He said it can take around 12 hours to complete a batch.

“We produce batches for countries all over the world, including Europe, Africa and the Americas,” he said.

The thriving zardozi and sari industry has been further boosted by Prime Minister Modi's 'Local for Global' initiative, which positions Varanasi as a hub of global craftsmanship. (ANI)