What to eat at the San Gennaro Festival

This year marks the 98th annual The Feast of San Gennaro in New York's Little Italy takes place this year from Thursday, September 12, to Sunday, September 24. It is one of the few remaining saints' festivals in the city. Many were started by Italian immigrants from small towns in southern Italy, where patron saints' feasts were often the most anticipated holidays of the year.

This feast is dedicated to Saint Gennaro, the Bishop of Benevento in Italy, who was martyred by the Romans in 305 AD. His blood was collected and preserved in Naples, where it is said to become liquid every year on September 19, hence the timing of our own feast. Gennaro is considered the patron saint of Naples.

If you can, go on Thursday, September 12, the first day of a festival that runs from about noon to midnight through Sunday, September 24. On the first day, everything seems a little fresher, and the crowds haven't formed yet. By Friday night, many blocks will be impassable. Spend the day strolling up and down the blocks, from Canal to Houston on Mulberry Street, which stretches east and west on many side streets.

Be sure to choose carefully, as many of the dishes are relatively expensive and could be better. Read on to discover the top five dishes, paying particular attention to the traditional festival foods of Naples—and tips on navigating this particularly crowded event.

Best dish of the festival: Pork bracciole at Johnny Fasullo's

Bracciole here is a pounded pork chop wrapped in parmesan, breadcrumbs and herbs. Most versions at the festival are lackluster, but I prefer Johnny Fasullo's, in part because it's grilled over charcoal. On a bun with sautéed onions and peppers, it's the best at San Gennaro. Don't forget to ask for a grilled green chile, which comes with it for no extra charge. If you'd rather have a sausage and pepper sauce instead, this is the place to get it. Corner of Grand and Mulberry, $15

Zeppole at Sophia

Zeppole are perhaps the most popular dish from San Gennaro. They originate from fried strips of dough sprinkled with icing sugar, known as chiacchiere. At the Naples Carnival they are served with sanguinaccio, a chocolate cream flavored with pig's blood. Zeppole are fried in large pans of oil until golden brown and sprinkled with a blizzard of sugar. They are also one of the most inexpensive treats at the fair. 167 Mulberry between Grand and Broome, $5 for six

Rice balls at Lucy's

Along the seven blocks of Mulberry Street are a half-dozen stalls attributed to Lucy Spata, who began selling zeppole, sausages and other southern Italian and Sicilian dishes in 1971. One of the best dishes is her enormous arancini: rice balls stuffed with ground meat and cheese and deep-fried. Be sure to ask for sauce, an essential part of the dish. 131 Mulberry between Hester and Grand, $10

St. Joseph's Pastries in Ferrara

Ferrara Bakery and Pastry is the anchor of Little Italy and has been open since 1892. Stalls are located on Mulberry Street and in front of the rather grand-looking shop at 195 Grand Street at Mulberry Street. Confusingly known in Naples as Zeppole di San Giuseppe, the St. Joseph pastry is a nod to Italy's past and the devotion to the saint. A choux pastry is filled with fluffy pastry cream and topped with either a maraschino cherry or chocolate chips – the choice is yours! 170 Mulberry Street between Grand and Broome, $10

Baked clams at Umbertos Clam House

Umbertos – the site of a famous mob murder – has a stand specializing in raw and fried clams, but why not sit on the dedicated sidewalk just off Mulberry Street? There you can enjoy a serving of baked clams from local littlenecks, served with bread and olive oil that tastes so garlicky it will burn your tongue. Drizzle some over each clam before eating. 132 Mulberry Street between Hester and Grand, $18

Here are some tips for visiting San Gennaro that I have collected after attending the festival and eating the street foods for 30 years.

• Most of the better food stalls are in the three blocks south of Broome Street; north of that is mostly jewelry stalls, kitchenware, and fairground attractions, so stick to those three blocks.
• Avoid cannoli. A great cannoli is filled to order with sweetened ricotta; here they are often filled hours or even days in advance.
• When buying zeppole, make sure they are freshly fryered: the icing sugar will melt on top. They also taste much better when warm.
• Yes, it's tempting to sit in one of the roped-off restaurant areas, but beware: They mostly serve portions of overcooked pasta for around $20, and the special menu is pretty much the same everywhere. If you absolutely must go to a restaurant, choose Rubirosa at 235 Mulberry Street or another one you know.
• Definitely skip the pizza at San Gennaro. There are better pizzas all over town.
• Avoid carnival games, even if the performers are colorful characters. The hoops at basketball games are smaller than usual and you won't be able to score a basket. And besides, do you really need a three-foot-tall Pikachu?
• If you are there for dinner, go in the early afternoon; if you want to people watch, go at 10pm
• Be careful of pickpockets, especially during crowded evening hours.