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Italy’s iron espresso price rule probably fallen forever – coffee roaster expects new sound barrier

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From: Christoph Gschoßmann

Coffee lovers who travel to Italy will soon have to dig deeper into their pockets. A sound barrier that has been in place for years is now finally falling.

Rome – “Espresso must not cost more than one euro” – that is an “iron rule” in Italian, for which there are even solid reasons. The country on the Mediterranean is known for its coffee lovers, coffee is a cultural asset there. But for anyone who has observed inflation in recent years and perhaps even enjoyed coffee in Italy, it will come as no surprise that this rule is threatening to be relaxed or has already been relaxed. After all, all products and services are becoming more expensive, so why should there be an exception for coffee?

Does espresso in Italy normally cost two euros per cup?

The Italian Consumer Association Assurances is even expecting the original rule to be doubled: As a result, an espresso at a bar will cost two euros in the next few months. The association wrote this in a press release. Beach seat prices have also risen considerably in Italy recently.

The association points out that espresso prices have already risen by 15 percent in the last three years. According to figures from the association, Robusta coffee beans have even become 68 percent more expensive than in the previous year in August 2023.

Coffee price increase hits Italians hard

According to a study by the association, the price of espresso in some cities is already 1.50 euros per cup. Around six billion coffees are served each year, generating seven billion euros. The increase is affecting consumers, said association president Gabriele Melluso, who spoke of a daily ritual for millions of citizens.

Due to the high costs, some cities, such as Naples, are in danger of losing the good tradition of “suspended coffee”, which “has always been known to have enormous social and solidarity value”.

Frost in the producing countries as a reason for rising coffee prices in Italy

The owner of the South Tyrolean coffee roaster Caroma, Valentin Hofer, also speaks of increases of 50 to 70 percent depending on the variety. According to Ray Extreme weather caused by climate change is the biggest reason for rising prices. “There was frost in the growing countries, and drought in Vietnam.” This means that the coffee plants are dying, so there is a shortage of coffee – and that drives up the price.”

The trend is not going to change quickly, because: “When a coffee plant dies, it takes three to five years before it produces the next crop,” he explains, and he “does not expect” the price to fall again any time soon. Then there are the transport costs and the increasing consumption of coffee.

Espresso could soon cost twice as much in Italy. (Symbolic image)
Espresso could soon cost twice as much in Italy. (Symbolic image) © prarinya/Depositphotos/IMAGO

Coffee prices in Italy are generally lower than in Germany or Austria

Now Hofer also thinks that 1.50 euros for an espresso could soon be two euros. That means hard times for coffee drinkers in Italy, who are used to low prices for a quick coffee. “That's part of the problem,” says Hofer. In Italy in particular, coffee prices are quite low when you compare them with Austria and Germany. In Switzerland, where products are generally more expensive, the price of coffee recently rose to 5 euros per cup.

The baristas are now in big trouble, they will have to raise prices to actually earn something.” Nevertheless, he is convinced that many customers will pay two euros for good quality. (cgsc)

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